Eowyn Refugee Outfit

Eowyn is seen wearing this outfit when they leave Edoras for Helm's Deep. At some point she puts a coat on over the top, but she is wearing this again when they reach their destination.

I've made parts of this costume already, but I found ways to improve upon it, plus this time I made the coat as well. I'm much happier with my latest version. I fixed up the fit and neckline shape of the overdress, and I remade the underdress with a thinner fabric to make it more comfortable when I wear my coat with it.

There is a study page for this outfit on LOTR Costume here. The costume galleries on the Extended Edition DVD for 'The Two Towers' are excellent, and show many important details, including her boots. Maggie has them on her website here and here. Katherine gave me some great advice on dyeing my fabric (Thanks Katherine!). You can see her lovely version of the coat here.

The two photos below were taken by Peter Fallon of Castle Software at Best of Both Worlds 23. That's my friend in the photo with me. If you want to see more information on her costumes, visit her costuming website: silvermoonblaze.net

The fabric I used is a light blue quilting cotton from my local Spotlight store. I bought it because it was the right colour, and because it was thin. I made my previous version with a linen/cotton blend, and I found it to be too thick to wear comfortably with all the layers.

I suspect that the sleeves are self lined. In the image above, the inner seam looks to be intentionally sewn opposite to normal to make it look neater when the sleeves are rolled up. After I looked at the photos with the sleeves down, I noticed that the embroidery appeared to go right down to her wrists. So then I started to wonder why that embroidery didn't show through on the other side. Then I thought that maybe the sleeves were self lined. So I thought that if I made mine that way, I could have the flexibility of being able to wear the sleeves up or down, and that it would look close to the original.

The next challenge was the sleeve lacing. Since I wanted mine to be flexible, I started the lacing on the forearm, far enough down so that when I folded up the sleeves, the holes couldn't be seen. I made the lacing with DMC embroidery wool. I got a colour that matched my fabric as closely as possible, and I plaited it together and knotted the ends. I made two sets. One set for the lower sleeves, for when the sleeves are rolled down, and longer ones for the upper arms, for when the sleeves are rolled up.

I did the eyelets on insides of the sleeves by hand. After I did a few of them, it started to be relaxing.

I made the dress with a split in the centre front, for when I make the KO Outfit (seen here). I inserted an invisible zip down the centre back.

The costume galleries showed us that there is embroidery on the neckline on the front and back, and also on the sleeves. I discovered that my sewing machine has a 'feather' stitch option, and that it looks fairly close to this. I decided to tackle it. Even though it was done by machine, it took a long time to get it all done. Mine was slightly more simplified than the real thing, but I am really happy with it.

I used approximately 3 metres of dark brown linen. This was the second time that I had made this, and I used a more lightweight linen, as I didn't want it to end up too bulky underneath my coat.

The real thing appears to have braided leather around the neckline. I couldn't find any leather narrow enough or dark enough, so I made some braid myself out of embroidery wool, using the same method as I used for the sleeve ties. I think it looks really nice, and it sits neatly on the neckline.

The neckline and the side openings have facings, so that they sit nice and flat. I did the eyelets on the sides by hand.

I bought approximately 5 metres of 'Rose' silk matelasse from Thai Silks, and dyed it myself with the 'Brown' Acid dye from Jacquard. It was surprisingly easy. I used one jar, and I kept an eye on it. When I thought it had dyed enough, I cut off a small piece, and dried it with a hairdryer. It was okay, so I shortened the wash cycle, then let it finish. I'm very happy with the colour. It is fully lined with dark brown cotton drill.

I took a photo of my sleeves before I attached them, so that you can see the shape that I used.

I made the lacing with DMC embroidery wool. I found a colour that matched my fabric pretty closely, and I plaited it together and knotted the ends. They stay in place really well and don't slip. Each tie is 3 metres long, and they are tied around my arms 4 times.

I cut apart an old fur coat for the trim. It was very messy to cut and to sew, but I'm very happy with how it looks. I sewed it on with a leather needle, with linen thread so that it was stronger. I sewed down one edge of the fur to the matelasse, and the other edge is sewn directly to the lining fabric.

I made my own piping for the front from cotton drill and jute twine. I sewed it to the silk matelasse, but didn't sew down the lining straight away. I inserted small hooks and eyes to the inside, and then sewed down the lining. They are very well hidden, and though it's a little fiddly to do up, they don't get seen at all.

The buttons I used are fake pearls, with gold around the edge. They are not functional, and they are attached to the outside of the piping.

This was an old piece of costume jewellery that I had. It had 5 faceted stones in it, so I prised them out. I had the setting in the centre replaced with a 10mm lapis lazuli cabochon, and I filled in the other 4 settings with 3mm round gold beads.

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